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Niagara Glen Information Center

Seperate Pages

• Introduction, History, etc..
• Glen Photo Gallery
• Video Clips
• Problem Distributions by Area and Grade
• Directions
• Niagara Park's Commision Letter (Access Issues)
• Sketches, Soft Landings, and Spotters
• Weather, etc...
• Other Bouldering Links

Finding your way Around the Glen

Getting around the Glen can be a very confusing (but amusing) part of your bouldering experience. The park publishes a trail map that shows all the major trails and blabs about the geology of the area and other touristy stuff. We've included an overview map showing the major trails as well as the areas which we have broken the Glen into. All directions in this guide assume that you'll stick to the established trails, so please do.

Most areas have a small map showing the location of most of the boulders in that area. We've included descriptions and directions to each boulder prior to the route listings. The boulders for each area are listed in the order that they will appear when walking down the main trail for that area. When describing routes, we often refer to the "front" of the boulder. Whichever face of the boulder faces the trail, is the front.

Access Issues and Local Ethics

The park service is cool, so are the tourists. The summer months see herds of people and they want to talk to "climbers". Answer their questions... it's good PR. The headwall at the Glen has been closed for several years to all types of climbing. PLEASE RESPECT THIS CLOSURE. We have scanned a copy of the Niagara Park's Commission letter .. please check it out so you'll be informed of the park's official position on roped climbing and bouldering.

There are several roped problems on the higher boulders in the Glen. Some of these boulders are equipped with bolts for top ropes. Please refrain from adding bolts to any boulder in the Glen. Where no bolts are present, it's most likely that TR's are usually rigged with normal climbing gear. You can also sling a tree or sling some pockets. If a route looks like it needs a TR and the guide has it rated in the V scale (meaning it's considered a boulder problem), it was originally done as a boulder problem.

Grades and Ratings

The ratings we use throughout the site are almost exclusively V Scale ratings. Climbs rated with the YDS (Yosemite Decimal System) are typically climbed with a rope and are referred to as climbs. Everything rated with the V scale is considered a boulder problem. Many older established problems are rated in the YDS (and are "really" boulder problems) for continuity with older guide books.

The skinny on the V Scale is as follows: V0 is easy ... V15 is way hard. We believe, by a great deal of trial and error, that our grades are fair. They are, at the very least, consistent. If you are new to the sport, just crank on a lot of stuff at the same grade and you'll get a feel for the ratings. Comparing the YDS and V scale poses inherent difficulties. Several aspects of bouldering are dramatically different from roped climbing. For those that insist on comparing the V scale to the familiar YDS, we've included a concensus conversion chart between the 2 systems.

Misc. Stuff

• The authors of this guide are not authors; they're climbers that scribbled some stuff down for historical reasons.
• We've made every effort to be as accurate as possible with problem descriptions, photos, and captions. There will be inconsistencies due to alcohol induced stupors.
• All problems should be done in the same style as the first ascensionist.
• Unique problems such as dynos and sit down starts are usually noted.
• If it's an established problem, don't clean the landing. It's part of the problem.
• Don't bullshit yourself... a top out, sit down start, or dyno is part of a problem. To complete a problem you must adhere to these to have your bragging rights. If you need bragging rights you shouldn't be bouldering anyway.
• If it's near the trail and not in the guide, trust us...it sucks.